Cedar shake siding brings character to a home, but nothing lasts forever. If you’re seeing warped boards, dark stains that won’t wash away, or pieces that crumble when you touch them, your siding has reached the end of its life. The good news? Replacing old siding fixes current problems and gives you a chance to upgrade your home’s protection, improve its appearance, and maybe skip years of scraping and staining.
Whether you plan to do this work yourself or just want to understand what’s involved before hiring a contractor, this guide covers the complete process. You’ll learn how to check for damage, what tools and materials the job requires, how to remove old siding without destroying what’s underneath, and how to install new materials correctly. We’ll also look at modern options that might suit your needs better than traditional cedar and help you figure out when to call in professionals.
Siding replacement matters beyond looks. Get it right, and you protect your home’s structure from water damage and cut down on energy costs. Get it wrong, and you’re looking at rot, mold, and premature failure that costs far more to fix. Let’s walk through how to do this properly.
Steps to Replace Cedar Siding
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to replace cedar shake siding:
Step 1: Inspect and Evaluate Your Existing Siding
Begin by conducting a comprehensive assessment of your current siding condition. Walk around your home and examine the exterior surfaces carefully, paying particular attention to areas that experience the most exposure to weather. Common warning signs include wood that feels soft to the touch, pieces that have warped or pulled away from the wall, splits running through individual shakes, and dark patches suggesting persistent moisture issues.
Use a flat-head screwdriver to test questionable areas—gently push the tip into the wood. If it sinks in easily or the wood feels spongy, you’re dealing with rot. Focus your inspection on vulnerable spots: the areas surrounding windows and doors, under roof eaves, near utility hookups like electrical meters or dryer vents, and anywhere two different materials meet.
Don’t just look at the surface layer. Where possible, check the condition of what’s underneath—the building paper or house wrap and the wood sheathing itself. Water damage that has penetrated beyond the siding creates more serious structural concerns that must be addressed during replacement.
Based on your findings, determine whether spot repairs will suffice or if complete replacement makes more sense. A handful of damaged shakes scattered across one wall might warrant simple repairs, but extensive deterioration, particularly if moisture has reached the underlayment or wall structure, calls for a full replacement to prevent ongoing problems.
Step 2: Assemble Your Tools and Materials
Successful siding replacement depends on having everything you need before starting work. This preparation prevents mid-project delays and ensures you can work safely and efficiently.
Tools You’ll Need:
- Pry bar for leveraging shakes away from the wall
- Shingle ripper designed to slide under siding and cut through nails
- Standard hammer for general work
- Pneumatic nail gun or finish nailer to speed installation
- Sharp utility knife with extra blades
- Chalk line for marking straight lines
- Measuring tape (25-foot minimum)
- Circular saw fitted with a fine-tooth blade for clean cuts
- Oscillating multi-tool for precision cutting in tight spaces
- Caulk gun for sealing joints
- Level (4-foot minimum) for alignment checks
Materials to Purchase:
- Your chosen replacement siding material (fiber cement, vinyl, engineered wood, metal, or traditional cedar if staying with shakes)
- Corrosion-resistant fasteners appropriate for your siding choice—stainless steel works universally and never rusts
- Modern weather-resistant barrier (housewrap or building paper)
- Self-adhesive flashing tape
- Metal flashing pieces for windows, doors, and penetrations
- Furring strips or rainscreen matting to create ventilation space
- Starter strip for the bottom course
- Corner trim and J-channel as needed
Safety Gear:
- Heavy-duty work gloves with good grip
- Impact-resistant safety glasses
- Dust mask or respirator (especially important when cutting fiber cement)
- Ear protection for power tool use
- Long-sleeve shirt and pants to protect from debris
- Sturdy work boots
- Properly rated ladder with stabilizer bars; rent scaffolding for multi-story work
Step 3: Remove the Old Siding
Taking down existing siding requires patience and care to avoid damaging the wall structure underneath. Rushed removal often creates additional repair work.
Start at the bottom of the wall and work your way upward. This approach follows the natural overlap pattern and makes each course easier to remove. Slide your pry bar or shingle ripper under individual pieces, working gently to lift them away from the wall. Many nails hide beneath the overlapping course above, so you’ll need to feel for resistance and work systematically.
When you encounter stubborn nails that won’t budge, use your oscillating tool to carefully cut around them rather than forcing the issue. Excessive prying can crack the sheathing boards beneath or create gouges that complicate installation of your new siding.
As each section comes down, pause to clean the exposed wall surface. Remove all old nails—protruding fasteners will prevent your new siding from sitting flat. Pull off any torn or deteriorated building paper. Inspect the sheathing boards carefully. Soft spots, dark staining, or boards that flex excessively all indicate rot that needs repair before you can proceed.
Step 4: Install Your New Siding
With wall preparation complete, you’re ready to install your replacement siding. Begin by measuring the wall height and calculating how many courses you’ll need based on your siding’s exposure. Mark horizontal reference lines with a chalk line to keep courses straight as you work up the wall.
Start at the bottom with your first course resting on the starter strip. Drive fasteners at the manufacturer’s recommended locations—typically every 16 inches along the length, plus within an inch of each end. Keep nails flush with the surface but not overdriven. Work upward one course at a time, maintaining consistent overlap between rows so each piece sheds water onto the one below. Stagger vertical joints between courses by at least 8 inches to prevent water infiltration and create a more professional appearance.
Pay special attention to corners, windows, doors, and penetrations. Install appropriate trim pieces around openings, ensuring each overlaps the piece below in a shingling fashion. Cut siding carefully to fit around obstacles, sealing gaps with exterior-grade caulk. Leave small expansion gaps (typically 1/4 inch) where siding meets trim to accommodate material movement. Once installation is complete, walk the perimeter and seal any remaining gaps where water might enter, remembering to never caulk bottom edges—these must drain freely.
Should You Hire a Professional for Siding Replacement?
Replacing siding involves more than simply attaching new materials to your walls. Proper installation requires understanding moisture management principles, correct flashing techniques, and local building code requirements. Errors in any of these areas can result in water infiltration, structural damage, mold growth, and expensive repairs down the line.
Professional contractors bring specialized experience, proper equipment, and manufacturer-specific training to the job. They understand how different materials behave, how to integrate weather barriers correctly, and how to detail vulnerable areas like corners and penetrations. Most importantly, professional installation typically comes with warranties covering both labor and materials, providing protection for your investment. If you lack construction experience or feel uncertain about any aspect of the process, hiring qualified professionals offers peace of mind and helps ensure your new siding performs as intended for decades.
Alternative Siding Materials to Consider
After removing your old cedar shakes, you have several modern options that may better suit your needs and maintenance preferences.
Fiber Cement Siding
Fiber cement siding offers exceptional durability with resistance to fire, insects, and rot. Brands like James Hardie provide extensive color selections and profile options, including designs that mimic traditional cedar shakes. This material requires minimal maintenance beyond occasional cleaning and repainting every 10-15 years. Installation demands careful attention to manufacturer specifications, including proper weather barrier application, specialized cutting blades to handle the dense material, and specific fastener requirements to prevent cracking.
Vinyl Siding
Vinyl siding provides the most budget-friendly option with virtually no maintenance requirements beyond periodic washing. Modern vinyl comes in numerous colors, textures, and profiles that won’t fade significantly over time. Installation is straightforward but requires understanding thermal expansion—vinyl expands and contracts considerably with temperature changes, so panels must be installed loosely enough to move without buckling. Proper use of starter strips, J-channels, and trim pieces ensures a weather-tight installation.
Cedar or Wood Alternatives
Cedar shake siding remains available if you prefer the natural aesthetic. However, consider that wood siding demands regular maintenance including staining or painting every 3-5 years, remains vulnerable to moisture damage and insect activity, and typically has a shorter lifespan than synthetic options, especially in wet or humid climates.
Regardless of material choice, successful installation depends on following manufacturer guidelines precisely. Maintain proper clearances from ground level and rooflines, use corrosion-resistant fasteners appropriate for your material, create adequate drainage planes behind the siding, and account for how your chosen material responds to temperature and moisture changes. These fundamentals apply universally, though specific techniques vary by product.
FAQs: Replacing Cedar Shake Siding
Here are our most frequently asked questions from homeonwers with cedar shake siding:
What is the best tool for removing cedar shakes?
A flat pry bar (also called a “cat’s paw” or shingle ripper) is the most effective tool. It slides under shakes to remove nails and lift them without damaging underlying materials. For larger projects, a roofing shovel speeds up removal. You’ll also need a claw hammer for stubborn nails and a utility knife for cutting caulked edges.
How much does it cost to replace cedar shakes on a house?
Full replacement typically costs $8-$14 per square foot installed, or $12,000-$28,000 for an average 2,000 sq ft home. This includes removal, disposal, and installation. Costs vary based on shake quality (standard vs. premium grade), labor rates in your area, wall height/complexity, and whether structural repairs are needed underneath.
How expensive is it to replace cedar siding?
Cedar siding replacement runs $6-$12 per square foot for standard shiplap or bevel siding, slightly less than shakes. A typical home costs $10,000-$24,000 total. Premium clear-grade cedar costs more than standard knotty grades. Solid board siding is generally less labor-intensive to install than individual shakes, which reduces costs.
What is the life expectancy of cedar shake siding?
Properly maintained cedar shakes last 20-40 years. Lifespan depends on climate (wet climates reduce longevity), maintenance frequency (re-staining/sealing every 3-5 years), installation quality, and wood grade. Shakes on south-facing walls exposed to sun and rain typically deteriorate faster. Neglected cedar can fail in 15-20 years, while well-maintained premium shakes can exceed 40 years.
Ready to Replace Your Siding? Get a Free, No-Obligation Estimate
Your home deserves siding that delivers long-term protection, not short-term fixes. If your cedar shakes are aging, damaged, or requiring constant maintenance, or if you’re ready to upgrade to a more durable, low-maintenance option, professional installation is critical to performance and longevity.
With over a decade of experience transforming homes across the US and as a James Hardie Elite Preferred contractor, our experienced team installs siding systems engineered for your local climate, using proven moisture-management practices that help prevent rot, mold, and structural damage. We offer access to premium materials including James Hardie® fiber cement, high-performance vinyl siding, and TandoStone composite stone, all installed with precision and backed by strong manufacturer and workmanship warranties.
Don’t wait until minor siding issues turn into costly structural repairs. Contact us today to schedule your free estimate. We’ll walk you through your options, answer your questions, and help you make a confident, informed decision about protecting and enhancing your home.
